Vietnam, a land of breathtaking contrasts

With lengths of unspoiled dramatic coastline, sheltered harbors, fertile and well-irrigated lowlands and vast upland forests, Vietnam is a remarkably beautiful and fertile land, rich in agricultural resources. It is rapidly becoming a major supplier of rice, fish, fresh fruit and vegetables to the rest of Southeast Asia.

Vietnam's narrow curving "S" shape hugs the coast of Indochina for 1,000 miles north to south, and measures just over 30 miles across at its narrowest point. The country boasts a 1 ,600-mile coastline in addition to countless dikes, canals and waterways, which include the Red River, the Perfume River and the Mekong River-one of the longest rivers in Southeast Asia. It is certainly no surprise then, that seafood and aquatic life are such an integral part of the diet throughout the country.

The other essential component of the Vietnamese diet is rice. The Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south are the two main rice-growing areas, although lush green rice paddies dotted with water buffaloes and rows of women with their distinctive conical hats can be seen throughout the country. The importance of rice to the economy is indicated by Vietnam's ranking as the third largest rice exporter in the world after Thailand and the United States, although the quality of its rice has not been regarded as highly as that of the other nations.

Sixty percent of arable land in Vietnam is given over to rice production, leaving little pasture for cattle farming. Hence beef, in particular, is a luxury for most Vietnamese, and the famous series of dishes, bo bay mon (literally, beef done seven ways) is highly regarded. In spite of urbanization and increasingly populated cities, roughly 80 percent of the population relies on rice for its livelihood.

The applications of rice go well beyond simple steaming, occurring in a diverse range of dishes and not always recognizable as rice. In addition to being used in the production of wine and vinegar, rice grains are also converted into flour and used to make rice noodles; rice is trans- formed into flat rice paper sheets for wrapping goi cuon the Vietnamese fresh spring rolls; glutinous rice cooked overnight, then wrapped into attractive banana leaf parcels becomes breakfast-time xoi or the traditional banh tay and banh chung eaten during Tet, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year holiday (that occurs at the same time as Chinese New Year, and was adopted from the Chinese).

In the cooler northern region (conquered by the Chinese in the second century b.c.), where undulating limestone hills recall Southwest China and where many of the Vietnam’s ethnic groups have their homes, the cuisine shares distinct similarities with Chinese food. Stewing is a popular cooking method, and dishes rated highly in China, such as grilled dog meat and chicken feet are great delicacies. Yet the two most famous dishes from the north are uniquely Vietnamese both are soups eaten to fight back the winter chill. Pho is traditionally a breakfast dish. but can be eaten all day, and is as popular in Ho Chi Minh City as in Hanoi; bun cha is an aromatic dish of barbecued pork eaten in broth with noodles and herbs.

In the center of the country, which is less agriculturally rich, a lack of variation in the Vietnamese diet and the demands of the reigning emperor spawned a highly developed cuisine. In the imperial city of Hue (the political capital from 1802 to 1945), the symbolic significance of food was refined to a great degree. Small portions in multiple courses, each one more beautiful than the next, elevated the food from common fare to exquisite delicacies fit for the emperor's table. Today, a delicious eggy pancake called banh khoai and a soup and noodle dish called bun bo Hue are two of Hue's best-loved streets  dishes.

In the temperate south, the cuisine more closely resembles that of neighboring Southeast Asian countries, such as Cambodia, Thailand and Malaysia. The food is more varied and rich than that of Hue or Hanoi, generously spiced with fresh chilies, coconut milk and a variety of herbs and spices.

In Dalat, just a few hours north of Ho Chi Minh City on the southern plateau, the hillsides are terraced with all sorts of western fruits and vegetables-strawberries, artichokes, oranges, mushrooms, carrots, eggplants and lettuces. The abundance of vegetables is so great that many of the region's inhabitants are vegetarians almost without thinking about it. Vast tea and coffee plantations surrounding the area could earn international attention if the quality of the harvest were improved through better handling and more sophisticated processing methods.

Heavy trucks leave Dalat every morning to deliver a bounty of fresh produce to the burgeoning markets of Ho Chi Minh City. Farther east, down the steep winding road out toward the coastline and the South China Sea, the low- lands are blanketed with canopies of dark purple table grapes. Here several local and foreign companies have joined forces in wine-making ventures.

As investment in agriculture continues to expand throughout the country, the quality of the food produced in Vietnam will certainly improve.