Sapa Travel Guide
The premier destination of north-west Vietnam, Sapa is a hill station built in 1922. It lies in a beautiful valley close to the border with China. The whole area has spectacular scenery - frequently shrouded in mist and home to diverse hill-tribe communities.
In the past, gelling here from Hanoi was not easy due to bad roads. Other historical reasons that prevented Sapa from becoming a slick tourist resort include: WWII, the guerrilla war against the French, the war with the US, and the border skirmish with China in 1979, not to mention Vietnam's severe economic decline in the 1980s. The old hotels built by the French were allowed to fall into disrepair and Sapa was pretty much forgotten.
Recently, the place has been rediscovered, and the subsequent tourist boom has caused a sea change in Sapa's fortunes. The bad roads are being upgraded, countless new hotels are appearing, the electricity supply is now pretty reliable and the food has improved immeasurably. The authorities are even preparing to assign street names in the town! One inherent downside to all of this prosperity is 'cultural damage' being suffered by the Montagnard minorities. Indeed the effects of mass tourism are already appearing.
One inconvenience that will not change quickly is the weather. If you visit off-season, don't forget your winter woollies. Not only is 'it cold (down to 0°C), but winter brings log and drizzle. The chilly climate does have a few advantages, though - the area boasts temperate-zone fruit trees (peaches. plums etc) and gardens for raising medicinal herbs. The dry season for Sapa lasts from around January to June and afternoon showers in the mountains are quite frequent.
January and February are the coldest (and foggiest) months. From March to May the weather is excellent, as is the summer (despite the rains; June to August). The window from September to mid-December is a pleasant time to be in Sapa, though there is a bit of lingering rain at the start and the temperature rapidly cools down towards the end of the year.
If possible, try to go during the week, when prices are cheaper and Sapa is less crowded and generally more pleasant. Crowds flock to Sapa for the Saturday market, but there is still plenty to see on weekdays as well, and many interesting villages within walking distance of the centre.
Sapa would be considerably less interest without the H'mong and Dzao people, the largest ethnic groups in the region. They are mostly very poor, but are rapidly learning about free enterprise. Most or the Montagnards are uneducated und illiterate, yet many or the young girls will amaze you with their command of English and French.
Lots or the women and young girls have gone into the souvenir business; the older women in particular are known for their strong-armed sales tactics and peddle everything from colourful ethnic garb to little pouches of opium stashed away in matchboxes. One frequent Sapa sight is a frenzy of elderly H'mong women clamouring around hapless backpackers to hawk their goods. 'Tres Jolie. Tres Jolie!' they say in French, to let you know just how 'very beautiful' their wares will suit you.
Pricing is usually communicated by lingers, each one representing 10,000 dong (about US$0.80). When negotiating prices. you do need to hold your ground, but go easy when it comes to bargaining - they may be persistent, but are not nearly as rapacious as many Vietnamese vendors. Besides, with the government cracking down Oil opium crops and increasing pressure on land, few other employment opportunities exist.
A word of warning on the clothes: as beautiful and cheap as they are, the dyes used are natural and are not set. Much of the stuff sold has the potential of turning anything it touches (including your skin) an unusual blue/green colour check out the hands and arms of the H'mong for an indication. Wash them separately ill cold salt water it helps stop the dye from running. Wrap anything you buy in plastic bags before stuffing it in your luggage.